Oahu, Hawaii, Travel Guide
Google map of attractions in this post!
We’ve been quite fortunate to be able to travel to Oahu three times (9/2018, 2/2020, 12/2021). It’s one of the few places that we have chosen to travel back to, and we love it so much that we are considering moving there. It’s a really special place. Beautiful nature, with every type of outdoor activity you could want, delicious local and international food, with this amazing fusion of cultures, and of course - the people who are super friendly and relaxed - bringing the “aloha” spirit. It would take a lifetime to get to know and experience it fully, but here are some tips and tricks we have gleaned from our trips there.
Pineapple stand outside of Diamond Head Crater (February 2020)
Which island to go to?
I don’t really think you can go wrong with any of the islands. It’s one of my missions to make sure I visit every single one. I’ve heard collectively the best things informally about Maui, followed closely by the Big Island. Both of these islands have great nature, and both have national parks. I think it’s pretty common to go to Oahu first, and I don’t think that’s a bad plan at all. Honolulu is on Oahu, making Oahu the most populated island. This has upsides - more lodging and food options. It has a bigger airport, and I think typically better deals on flights. Many of the well known sites (like Pearl Harbor, Waikiki, the North Shore) are on Oahu, which may be important draws for an individual. Downsides are Oahu can get a bit crowded with tourists. Oahu is a good size, where you can easily drive around the whole island, but big enough where there is plenty to do (and then some).
I think you could even plan to hit multiple islands - there are local airlines where tickets are pretty reasonable.
This guide will be for Oahu!
Waikiki Beach, Oahu (December 2021)
How much to budget?
I think it’s a huge myth that Hawaii is really expensive. I think buying and renting a house there, yes, it really expensive. Gas is also expensive, but it’s a small island - so you’re not using a lot of it. But otherwise, I think it’s comparable to the mainland. I wasn’t super sticker shocked by hotels, rental cars, restaurants, grocery stores, or activities. I also think there are some really good flight deals to be had. We flew from RDU in Raleigh, NC, to Honolulu around $400-$500 round trip for one person each time, for the three times we have been. We’ve found decent lodging for around the $100/night price point. I’d definitely budget to rent a car - you’d be missing out on a lot if you don’t have a set of wheels.
China Man hat, Oahu, Hawaii (December 2021)
When to go?
I’d avoid peak times, as it can become really crowded, and I don’t personally enjoy having to queue to take a hike or go snorkeling, for example. I’d avoid Christmas time for that reason.
The warmest temperatures and least rain are between March and September. The air temperature really is nice year round. But I’d keep in mind water temp - for example, the water was a bit too cold for me personally to go snorkeling in Feb or Dec when we were there, but I went snorkeling every day in Sept. It might also be wise to shoot for a dryer time of year, to avoid rain. (We arrived a week after some serious flooding in Dec 2021).
Waikiki, Oahu (February 2020)
Where to stay?
I think one has to decide: Waikiki, or not Waikiki. Waikiki is where the majority of hotels are located. The airbnb and hotel options outside of Waikiki feel a lot more limited, and I would definitely book in advance if you know for certain you don’t want to be in Waikiki.
There are benefits to Waikiki - close to many restaurants, bars, shopping. There are many nice, affordable options. It’s also close to the airport. You still have access to a beach. Expect to have to pay for parking in Waikiki, as this is a very busy part of the city. It will very much feel like you are in a city. I’m not a huge fan of Waikiki if I’m honest - it’s busy, and touristy, and doesn’t feel especially Hawaiian or authentic to me. But it certainly works and is convenient for a home base.
What I’d recommend is not staying in Waikiki. I’d avoid the West side of the island. I think the North Shore is a bit too far from the majority of attractions. I’d recommend slightly north or east of Honolulu. I really like the Kailua area - it feels more residential, and less touristy. It’s next to one of the prettiest beaches, Lanikai, and still is a big enough town where there are plenty of amenities (like Whole Foods), with a lot more chill than a bigger city like Honolulu. Any spot will be a fine base. If you are not staying in a city, please be mindful that there are wild roosters everywhere, and you will hear them. That may be a reason to pack ear plugs, or stay in a city if you are light sleeper.
Hotels I can vouch for:
Waikiki
Vive Hotel Waikiki ($)
- walkable
- breakfast included (delicious fruit)
- smaller rooms, but nice
- no pool
Pacific Monarch ($)
- walkable
- bigger rooms, but outdated
If you are balling on a budget, save on parking in Waikiki with this parking deck (walkable from both hotels above):
Waikiki Banyan Parking ($)
2532-2520 Kūhiō Ave., Honolulu, HI 96815, United States
Prince Hotel ($$$)
- amazing views of the water, with big picture window in each room
- great service
- infinity pool
Prince hotel.
Not Waikiki
Paradise Bay Resort ($$)
- free yoga (on a floating dock)
- free kayak rentals available
- gorgeous mountain and sea views
- quiet and secluded (except for roosters)
Yoga on the floating dock at Paradise Bay Resort, in Kaneohe, Oahu (December 2021)
What to eat?
Local:
First on the list is authentic Hawaiian cuisine.
I would make a point to shop at local grocery store Foodland - this is actually a really great place to get delicious and affordable poke (in addition to tons of fresh produce, and other Hawaiian treats). Specifically, I’d recommend “Foodland Farms” - the Farms store format is a specialty market with more options.
Farmer’s market, Kailua, Oahu (December 2021).
Also, the many farmer’s markets. We’ve been to the ones in Kailua and Honolulu. So many fruits I had never seen before, and it was super fun to buy one of each new thing, and try it over the course of the week. You cannot beat fresh pineapple. It is a can’t miss item.
Kailua farmer’s market haul (February 2020).
Helena’s is well known, a James Beard award winner. It appears to be temporarily closed at the time of writing. When open, it’s very popular, so expect to wait, but it’s also very good and affordable.
Helena’s restaurant.
Poi Factory is another traditional Hawaiian restaurant. It has a beautiful history. All the dishes available at Waiahole Food Factory are inspired by the food you would find at a traditional Hawaiian Luau, like hand pounded poi.
Poi factory.
You can typically get a mix plate or box lunch, a bento style meal, where you can try multiple items.
Local items to look for:
Laulau - pork wrapped in layers of taro leaves and cooked in an underground hot rock oven
Kalua Pig - pork cooked in an underground oven
Poi - thick taro paste, can be sour
Hoʻio Salad - fern shoot salad
Haupia - cold coconut milk flan-like dessert
Lomi Salmon - cold salad of diced salmon, onions, tomatoes
‘Awa (kava) - earthy beverage made from kava root, with medicinal properities
Kulolo - taro and coconut pudding-y/fudge like dessert
poke - bite sized cubed raw fish
shave ice - icee
loco moco - white rice topped with hamburger patties, fried eggs, gravy
li hing - powder topping, made of ground plum skin that has previously pickled in a combination of licorice, red food coloring, salt, sugar; add to fruit like pineapple, or find candy covered in li hing
Other restaurants:
⭐️Banan is a favorite for local, organic bananas that have been turned into banana ice cream, with other delicious local toppings, like honey macadamia nut butter. Get your banana ice cream on top of a breadfruit (ulu) waffle, and call it a meal.
Banan.
⭐️Marugame Udon - budget friendly (~$5-8/bowl) meal of freshly made udon noodles in a delicious soup. It was hard not to eat here every bight.
Udon.
Musubi Cafe - this looks like a non-descript chain, but don’t be fooled - they have really good spam musubi. And if you are looking at spam, and think it doesn’t look very tasty - give it a try. It’s really, really good.
Musubi cafe.
Kono's - breakfast burritos, plate lunches, and sandwiches If you get a tattoo of the Kono pig, you get a discount for life. :D
Nalu Health Bar - salads, bowls, juice, wraps
Island Vintage Shave Ice - handmade, fresh ingredients (much better than Matsumoto which I didn’t think was worth the hype)
Island Vintage shave ice.
Katsumidori Sushi - very good quality and fair price sushi. It looks like a hotel restaurant, but it’s actually very good. Go early. Expect a wait every day of the week.
Coffee:
You cannot go wrong with Kona coffee, which is the type of coffee locally grown on Hawaii.
⭐️Honolulu Coffee - local chain of coffee shops serving Kona coffee grown on the big island. There is the Honolulu Coffee experience center - which has more information on the coffee growing and roasting process.
Other places we ate:
Good:
The Pig and the Lady - Vietnamese
Leonard’s - Portuguese malasadas (donuts)
Cow cow tea - boba tea
Nana’s green tea - green tea soft serve
Bubbie’s homemade ice cream - mochi ice cream (you can buy this at whole foods)
Crack seed store - li hing candy (this is likely an acquired taste)
Just okay:
Frost Kailua - froyo
Appetito craft pizza & wine bar - decent pizza, good happy hour specials
Green World Coffee Farm
MoDo Hawaii - mochi donuts
Wicked HI slush - honey slushie
Skip it:
Dole Plantation - skippable IMO (this is likely an unpopular opinion)
Matsumoto Shave Ice - skippable IMO (this is likely an unpopular opinion)
What to do?
Tours:
Tour the Kamaka Ukulele factory. The son of the original Kamaka founder gives this free tour for fun, and the history behind and passion for creating these high quality koa wood ukuleles is fascinating. Fun fact: the Kamaka founder is also the founder of the pineapple ukulele body shape.
Kamaka ukulele tour.
⭐️Manoa chocolate tour - factory tour with tastings ($15)
Manoa chocolate factory tour.
Nature:
⭐️Snorkeling at Hanauna Bay - get there early, it gets crowded, and they stop allowing people in if they are at capacity. If you have room in your suitcase, it’s cheap to buy your own snorkel set.
⭐️Kayak Kane’ohe Sandbar. We used Two Good Kayaks, located in Kailua, and redeemed a Groupon.
Kayaking Kaneohe sandbar.
⭐️Spend the day at the beach at Lanikai - i think this is the prettiest Oahu beach.
Lanikai beach.
Spot sea turtles at Laniakea beach - but keep a respectful distance.
Laniakea beach (not pictured - sea turtles - but they are there).
Beautiful vistas at the end of Makapu’u Point Lighthouse Trail hike. From the same parking lot, you can access Alan Davis beach, which feels like a secret hidden cove.
Parasailing with views of Honolulu and Diamond head.
Diamond head trail - go early, paid parking lot gets full quickly.
Diamond head trail.
(Note: The very famous Haiku Stairs - “Stairway to Heaven” hike is actually illegal desipite all the photos you see of it- so please respect the rules and don’t hike it.)
Gardens:
⭐️Foster Botanical Garden - not part of reciprocal garden membership program, but worth the entrance fee.
Cannonball fruit at Foster botanical garden.
Koko crater botanical garden.
Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden - the entrance of this is a great photo op. Bring bug spray, you’ll need it.
Wahiawa Botanical Garden - small, but nicely curated.
Wahiawa botanical garden.
Lyon Arboretum.
Skip Queen Kapi’olani Garden and Lili’uokalani Garden - not actually gardens, more like green squares.
Local musicians
Jake Shimabukuro
Jack Johnson
Thunderstorm Artis
Listen to Somewhere Over the Rainbow by Iz (rest in peace)
What next?
On our list for next time:
The Japanese Garden
Waimano Falls
Manoa Falls
Kualoa Ranch - where they filmed Jurassic Park (this looks like a tourist trap, but locals tell me it’s actually really cool - especially riding ATVs).
Giovanni shrimp truck
Tonkatsu Tamafuji - specialize in pork cutlet
Rainbow Drive In - Hawaiian plate lunches
Living Pidgin book - A collection of talks and poems by Hawaii's pidgin guerrilla, Lee Tonouchi. Hawaiian Creole English (usually referred to as “pidgin”)
What are your Oahu favorites?
xoxo
- Lauren
